The allure of Valparaiso is controversial. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a must-see on most travel lists for Chile. Just last week in Atacama, we met a fellow traveller who raved about Valparaiso. However, for every charmed visitor, you will find one that is less than impressed (i.e. me).
Highlights of Valparaiso:
1) La Sebastiana – Pablo Neruda’s (Nobel Laureate in Literature) Former Home
This is one of the most eccentric houses I’ve ever been in. I think it is worth a visit just to see its quirky decor and outrageous furnishings. The house itself is fairly small. An hour was sufficient for us. No photo-taking was allowed within the house but we could aim our camera outwards, to capture the great views of the sea.
2) Graffiti
Creative street art adorns many walls and building facades in Valparaiso. Wandering the streets of Valparaiso was akin to visiting an art museum.
Even the normally dignified banks had a “valpo” touch.
3) Funiculars (otherwise known as Ascensors)
A number of rickety old funiculars dot the hillsides of Valparaiso. I loved catching a glimpse of them moving along the skyline. I can’t say we felt 100% safe in them (very creaky), but that was part of their charm. We only managed to take two, Ascensor Concepcion and Ascensor Reina Victoria. If we had more time, I would have loved to try them all!
4) Cerro (Hill) Alegre and Cerro Concepción
The twisting streets of these two neighbourhoods are home to numerous cafes, restaurants and boutique shops.
We grabbed a bite at La Coco.
And finished up with ice-cream. 🙂
Lows:
1) Graffiti
Graffiti is a double-edged sword. There is a fine line between art and vandalism. While we saw some truly creative artwork, others were much less appealing. Case in point, this old funicular station would have looked so much more charming without the graffiti.
2) Filthy Streets
The streets were full of litter and stray dogs abound, meaning we had to watch out for poop as well. That kind of took the joy out of exploring the streets.
3) Bland Architecture
Valparaiso just wasn’t pretty to us. Other than Cerros Alegro and Concepcion, the overwhelming impression of Valparaiso was that of dilapidation and deterioration. There were colourful gems here and there (see below) but they were few and far between.
Overall Thoughts on Valparaiso:
Valparaiso is interesting enough for a day’s visit, but there is no need to make a special trip down.
How to get to Valparaiso from Santiago:
- Take the metro to Universidad de Santiago station
- Follow the signs to the turbus bus terminal
- Purchase tickets at the counter – 2,700 pesos for a one-way ticket
- Travel time is slightly under 2 hours
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